Sun Street Breads

Why did I spend that last 4 days dreaming of Sun Street Breads? Probably for the same reason I will continue to fantasize for the next 4...

Two reasons, one is that I've fallen behind on the Minneapolis food scene and have promised myself to try one new place a week. Sun Street was on my list, mostly because it was on everyone else's list... including CityPage's best breakfast of 2012 and MSPMag's best new restaurants of 2011. The Yelp reviews didn't hurt the cause either, in fact, the Yelp reviews fueled my need to fodder (can I say it that way? Oh well, I think I just did).

The other reason is because they serve a rare plate for vegetarians - biscuits and gravy. BUT biscuits and gravy without the animal. Of course, they serve the meaty variety but amazingly enough they offer a mushroom gravy for those of us vegetarians seeking southern comfort. We need soul sometimes too people! Here's the thing - biscuits and gravy is one of those menu items that I get jealous of. I really, REALLY like the idea of them. However, it's very rare to see a meat-less alternative of this dish. In fact, I doubt I have ever actually eaten biscuits and gravy due to this very predicament, but again I really, REALLY like the idea of them, so I set out to get some.

The reviews of the biscuits and gravy got me stupidly excited, so excited I dreamed of them for four days... through a failed attempt to go there on Saturday when my brunch date changed our plans (he was SOOO not worth it, by the way) and all the way to this Monday morning.... and, man, did Sun Street Breads deliver!

The gravy itself was thick, creamy mushroomy goodness with a kick of pepper. The kind of gravy that sticks to your fork on the way up. No drips allowed. The made-from-scratch-and-on-site biscuits were perfect buttery, flaky bits of heaven. It was comfort done right and with just enough soul. I got a half order with a side of eggs over easy, a simple and delicious breakfast. Also, pretty easy on the wallet, gotta love that.

I know, I know... why would I trust this kid who has never eaten bisquits and gravy that these were GOOD biscuits and gravy? Because I know good food. What? That's not reason enough for you? Ok, then believe my friend from West Virginia with enough of the South in her to judge the best and the worst. She deemed them right on par with the best, the pepper, she told me, wasn't traditional but it was done really well. She said she'll bringing her folks next time they visit, that says something, right? At least more than me saying... UmmmmYummm.

I left full and happy. The hard part is going to be when I go back wanting to try their lunch and dinner menu, which offered some other vegetarian options that peaked my interest like the Delta Sandwich (sweet potato mash, mustard greens, fennel slaw, on cracked wheat roll) and the Chips & Curry (roasted vegetables, hand cut fries raita & coconut chutney), and I will inevitably want the biscuits and gravy every time! To that I say... Bring it on!


written October 15, 2012 - Mary

Ok Brasa Ok

Well, I have learned my lesson. I sat here just days ago ranting about Brasa's vegetarian menu and yesterday the universe countered. The lesson I learned is to complain more. Cause if the universe wants to correct me, let 'em do it, shit... I got free Brasa brought to me last night, catered for a 12 hour shift at work.

On the menu: Remember this is stick to your ribs comfort food here, for serious stomachs and brave souls. I was glad to try the Black Bean Fritter sandwich, but holy pepper! A kick that made the second half of this sandwich hard to consider. Indeed a black bean fritter, fried and large enough patty to fill a bun that required double-fisting. Peppery, smokey and hardy, covered in chipotle with the smooth of avocado and mozzarella to take an edge off. Worthy enough to warrant a trip to Brasa, but definitely a challenge to stomach the whole thing. Can we go half-sies?

Next up, your standard rice, nothing to squawk about, and black beans that were plain and cold (remembering it was catered and time is never on beans'* side). An apple coleslaw that was a refreshing bite amidst all the other musky fare. Sweet and tart, clean and fresh, no slime or goop to spoil this one (and this is coming from a girl that doesn't like coleslaw). The mini corn muffins tasted like a pat of butter and I'm still not sure if I mean that in the best possible or worst possible way.

My only wish was that I was more hungry when I filled my plate, I've been eating like a bird lately without the stomach for much, and Brasa is no place for birds. Verdict, I would head there if a friend wanted to and I wouldn't be nervous about whether or not I would enjoy it.

What I'd go back for seconds of: The apple-slaw actually. Surprisingly enough, and truly I don't even like that coleslaw stuff.


written September 28, 2012 - Mary

[*]I like the idea of beans being possessive

The Walnut Burger

Have you had this thing? No, really, have you had this thing?

I'm honestly surprised that I don't remember the first time I've had this thing. I can't even remember whether I found it in a grocery aisle or on a menu somewhere... All I know is it's damn good and harder to find than it should be.

The Walnut Burger hails from Wisconsin, Trempealeau to be exact, nearing La Crosse and sitting right on Mississippi River bluffs. More exactly, it originated in the kitchen of the Trempealeau Hotel over 20 years ago when they wanted to come up with a hearty vegetarian option. I've actually had the pleasure of eating a walnut burger at it's birthplace. I have also had the pleasure of forcing my meat-loving father to try a bite (he calls everything I eat "weirdo-shit") and gotten the response, "oh that's... edible, I suppose". That's winning when it comes to my father.

The walnut burger is really walnuts. Yep, and Wisconsin cheese, of course, cheddar and mozzarella, a little egg for binding and some spices to boot. It's a savory, somewhat musky flavor but smooth, always smooth.

Years ago I must have found the burger at one of these places, because they are the only places to this day around town that I know have them:

As for restaurants, I know of two: Sea Salt in Minnehaha Park has the walnut burger on the menu. A tasty veggie alternative to fish at that place. The other spot, surprisingly enough, is Merlin's Rest on Lake Street amid their Irish pub fare. Both serve it up standard hamburger style, with lettuce, tomato et al.

Grocery - most Twin Cities co-ops carry a frozen 4pack. Don't be nervous about the price (at almost $9!), it's always worth it. I've seen them at Seward, Mississippi Market, and the Wedge, as well as most Kowalski's around town. The perks of making your own is finding new ways to enjoy this savory patty - broken up into 'meat-balls' for spaghetti or atop buttered noodles, for example. I think of it as a spicy sausage replacement when I'm cooking, even though I don't have the slightest idea what spicy sausage tastes like or what it'd be good in...

So put that boca burger down and go find yourself a walnut burger!


written September 21, 2011 - Mary

the 'Vegetarian' menu

Can I rant for a minute? .... Where's my soap box?... is this thing on??

For the most part, vegetarianism in the Twin Cities is easy to do. A good number of great restaurants cater to us weirdos exceptionally well, but every so often a GREAT restaurant (the one everyone is talking about) forgets about us. Can't win them all, right? Some of the GREAT ones I often hear about are 112 Eatery, Butcher & the Boar, Brasa, Fogo de Chao to name a few... And after I hear all these lovely words and rave reviews, the reviewer  (realizing they are talking to me) says, "Oh, but they don't have a whole lot of vegetarian".

Because I have heard this so many times, I've never bothered to take a close look at the menus of the aforementioned. Today I did. And today I got REALLY excited and then got REALLY disappointed within the span of a few minutes.

I checked out Brasa's homepage. I hit 'Food' in the upper right hand corner. 'Food' populated a list of MENUS in the lower right hand corner. Holy shit!!! 'Minneapolis Vegetarian'. Could it be?! A whole special menu dedicated to my diet?

Turns out, it can't be true. Well, it can in name, but not in content. The vegetarian menu simply listed the meat-free items from the standard menu... but in a vegetarian font with lots of extra vegetarian spacing. As if we don't realize the candied yams are probably a safe bet. Sigh. I thought I won. Perhaps, this attempt at a  Vegetarian Menu was just a chance to spare us all the reading (which maybe I appreciate a little...).

I probably wouldn't be ranting about this if it wasn't for one thing - the thing that pushed me over the edge, even to the point of being somewhat (and totally stupidly) offended. Listed under Lunch Specials, that one thing was the item listed as Side Plate Special. Oh thank you for this very special option made just for us vegetarians!! Thanks for telling me to combine all the extras and sides to make something unique and satisfying for my entire meal!! I'm so excited to eat all the things that meat-eaters generally ignore on your menu!! Yay, what a great day to be a vegetarian! Yeah, the sarcasm is thick and the offence is snarky.

For the record, I will outright say... I will go to Brasa, I will order the side plate special and I will probably love every bite of it. This is not a critique on their food in the least bit. But what bugs me about the Vegetarian Menu approach is this: It's a poor attempt to cater to us outcast eaters. You call out to us directly using words like Vegetarian and Vegan, and then fall short on delivery. Presenting us with nothing but the things that happen to be meat-free. I don't mind if you are a restaurant that doesn't cater to me, but please don't pretend that you do. Please stop getting me all excited with claims of vegetarianism! I'd much rather keep showing up expecting to be disappointed and then discover that you have several sides that I can patch together a whole meal out of and feeling rather proud and crafty about it...

 because, really, you don't speak vegetarian very well at all.


written September 16, 2011 - Mary

Hello, Banh Mi

As a vegetarian, the sandwich on-the-go grows lack luster. Any way you layer it, the standard cheese, lettuce and tomato can only stimulate your taste buds for so long, not to mention your stomach still aches for some substance. Why it is taking so long for sandwich shops to get on the 'meat substitute' bang wagon is beyond me!

Hello, Bahn Mi.

I fell in love with Banh Mi at Eat Street's own Jasmine Deli. The name might be unfamiliar, but to most the description rings a bell, the Vietnamese sandwich always served on crispy french bread, pickled veggies (usually cucumbers, carrots, sometimes jalapenos), fresh cilantro, and your choice of protein in a mayo based dressing. My go-to at Jasmine's is the Curry Mock Duck, but there is a close second choice of tofu to satisfy the gluten-shy.

Perhaps because it was my first love, or perhaps because it's the best in the Twin Cities, but Jasmine will always be my number one for Banh Mi (not to mention, I just plain LOVE the family that owns it).

But what happens when a young vegetarian moves over the river and through the woods to Saint Paul?

Jasmine's becomes a 'trip', not a 'quick-bite'. That $4 sandwich, though worth the drive, becomes A thing to 'GET' instead of THE thing 'NEARBY'.

So begins my quest. I've done it soooo MANY times. I have literally driven around for hours at a time trying to find readily available Banh Mi in Saint Paul. When I tell people this, they don't believe me since there are plenty of Vietnamese shops on University Avenue, should be easy, no?

Wrong.
People tell me to go to Trieu Chau. Trieu Chau makes one batch of Banh Mi in the morning and when they are gone, they are gone for good. Sitting down there for dinner, you can't get the cooks to make you one no matter how many eyelashes you bat. And I got a lot of eyelashes worth batting.

Another joint that the internet brings me to is Trung Nam French Bakery, but I can never seem to find this place open. Ever. Supposedly, it's open for a few hours each morning (morning sandwich?), but I kinda don't believe them. It is quite possible that these establishments carry a decent sandwich, and really I just have rotten luck. Wouldn't be the first time... Still, I circle and circle without Vietnamese satisfaction.

There was one spot (I can't remember which, so I won't make claims) that I did find a Banh Mi bar (think salad bar) but their tofu was bland, undesirable and completely forgettable (hey, maybe that's why I forgot!).

A recent find is the former Brewberry's turned Espresso Royale off of Fairview Avenue that offers a surprising Banh Mi sandwich. They have a bit of a spin on it, instead of the traditional pickled veggies, it's more a spicy coleslaw mix. You know, it actually was a pretty decent rendition. I liked their added kick.

I will add one more that's worth noting, sometimes my failed circles will lead me to Bun Mi on Washington Avenue (a shorter journey to the other city for me). What I like about Bun Mi is they give a weighty protein helping, be it tofu or mock duck. It's a filling sandwich, and one that also carries that same spicy kick. But there is something about that place that feels too generic for me to enjoy... like ordering Vietnamese at a McDonald's... It might entirely be because of their decor (is that a weird thing to make a judgement based on?). Or maybe it's because I'd rather give my money to a mom & pop shop over a store that feels like a chain (I don't even think it's a chain, so again, admittedly a weird judgement)...

That's my quest. The best, worst and unfound Vegetarian Banh Mi near me. Hell, maybe I just need your help, where in the hell can I find a decent Banh Mi in St. Paul anyway????


written September 9, 2012 - Mary

Peanuts On A Plane

It was a holiday. The kind of holiday that family congregates and reminisces. I realize that could be any holiday and I suppose that’s why I can’t tell you which one and won’t attempt. Memory serves no indication of location or season, so I’m sticking with “It was a holiday”.

As all familial conversations do, the topics circled and circled and finally landed on travel. I’m sure an aunt was nervous about how her stomach would handle her upcoming cruise, which might have led to the conversation about various methods of vacationing. To this day, I have never vacationed on the water. Cruise ship travel is foreign to me. I might have said that aloud. It’s all together possible that my confession caused another aunt to admit to never having boarded a plane.

But here, here is where I remember. I remember that whatever holiday with whichever aunts (there are many!) in whatever roundabout way of conversation led me to telling them all about the first time I was ever on a plane.

My first flight was MKE to Jamaica with a friend’s family when I was a freshman in high school, in a thunderstorm no less, but that was not the story I told them. I told them the story of the first time I was on a plane. A different story all together.

I remembered being at a very young age, I’m talking pre-school young. I remember walking onto the plane and being greeted by friendly flight attendants. I remember fastening my buckle and how big it felt in my tiny child hands. We had peanuts, I definitely remember that. But this is where my memory ends.

Probably at the sound of my voice and the shape of my story, my mother’s ears perked up and she yelled out across the room to call my bluff. You see, my mom knows that we weren’t the kind of family to travel by plane. Ever. To anywhere. We were always a family of five driving a minivan with a pop-up camper in tow. The thing is... I know this fact too, which is why it came out of my own mouth as uncertain memory. It didn’t make sense. I’ll admit that and my mother thought she caught me. I could tell by the gloating excitement nestled under her tone. The words she yelled out, the words I could hear excitement poking through, were “Mary, you were never on a plane when you were little.”

I shook my head, maybe even slapped my knee and insisted that I had. I described again and again how much I remembered but that I didn’t remember going anywhere. It’s not that it was because we went somewhere and I have a failed memory (though this story may not disprove THAT theory), it’s because we really didn’t go anywhere. I remember we boarded, ate our peanuts and left.

I may have been red in the face at this point, persisting with my mother in front of my 900 aunts as they watched in disbelief. After all, mothers would know whether or not their 3 year old was boarding a plane alone. Minutes (feeling like hours) into my insistence, my mother’s face finally went soft. Her eyes sparkled the sparkle of recognition. She then told me about a daycare teacher that used to take us all on really cool field trips. She realized my memory was one of them.

I think about that memory now and it saddens me a bit. How travel has changed in 20 years, there’s no way a three year old today would be able to sit and eat peanuts on a plane to nowhere. More importantly, that a three year old would never have the opportunity twenty years later to disprove their upbringing to their very own mother.

 Today, I also can’t help to think ….. Which old family friend arrived at the airport that day that my daycare provider just had to pick up mid-shift, kids in tow? “Field trip” Right….

written July 21, 2011 - Mary

A Culinary Rebellion - Birchwood Cafe

I just got back from Saint Joseph, MN.
Aloud, that sentence is always followed by "where's that?"
I spent the last 10 days there and I'm not sure even I know how to answer that.
I mean... geographically, I'd answer "Near St. Cloud".
Then I'd hear, "that's like.... west, right?"
"Yeah, northwest. 75 miles up I-94"
"Oh.... what's in St. Joesph?"
That's where I don't know how to answer.
The College of St. Benedict I suppose.
There's a Taco John's and a Montessori.

I've never lived on campus.
Ever.
Not even during college.
I just did.
I made the right decision to not do that.

For 10 days,  I gained weight on campus dining service food. For a vegetarian that means salad mostly. A ton of salad to gain weight off of. The weight gain, I'm sure, had little to do with the content and more to do with the culinary context. 3 square, scheduled meals a day. Like clockwork... we'd wake, we'd eat, we'd work, we'd eat, we'd work, we'd eat, we'd work, we'd sleep. Meals were at 8am, 12pm, and 5pm on the minute stroke.

I got home and I longed to feel hunger.
I longed for culinary liberties.
To satisfy a craving.
To eat against the norm.

So this morning, waking up in my own bed that smelled only of me.... and then laying in that smell until 11... then showering for 30 minutes in my own bathroom among my own lotions and potions.... I decided today I was going to break all the meal conventions placed upon me the last 10 days. Today, I rebel.

I let myself starve until 1pm.
My 1:10 breakfast was chex mix.
There may have been some chocolate in there.
Who am I kidding?
There was chocolate in there.
And by two o'clock I wanted the ultimate rebellion to all I have eaten since June 8.
I needed the most ridiculous vegetarian meal that St. Joe's has never seen.
Could never even dream.

I wanted marinated tofu.
AND PROTEIN!
Protein of every kind.
Give me BBQ mock duck.
Give me Thai.
Give me Japanese noodles shop.
Give me stinky Greek.

I knew I needed to go big, go extreme. Even extreme for me. To prove to myself why I can never be a small town girl. That simple life can't always satisfy. So I set out.... to confuse my taste buds.


I ended up at Birchwood Cafe.

Looks unassuming. You think you have me pegged... oh veggie burger w/ ketchup.

Nah... I'm way more hardcore than that.

Black Bean Quinoa Burger.
Strawberry-Rhubarb compote.
Bib Lettuce.
Red Onion.
Provolone.
Parsley-Fennel aoili.
On a multi-grain bun.

Compote, you mean - stewed fruit.... on a burger? Yep, this is the weirdo shit I was craving.

The order of ingredients were important. The roof of your mouth hit the compote first. Sweet and tangy, feels like the kind of fruit laden drizzle you'd find on a summer salad. Perhaps with candied nuts and twice baked brie. Your brain stays there as your teeth ripped the bib lettuce. Hmmm... refreshing. Ok, I'll buy it. What hits next is the red onion, with the piercing bite that only raw red onion knows how to deliver. Then you reach patty. Rather smokey in flavor, and the provolone is really just adding the warm gooey texture while letting the smoke of the patty do it's thing. Any other cheese would over power. The bottom of the bun spread lightly with the crisp parsley-fennel aoili, almost acting like a citrus kicker at the end.

A well rounded experience I'd have to say. And satisfying no less. My only critique is the substantial bun in combo with the hearty patty, left a bit of a dry finish at the end. I might even goes as far as suggesting it open faced. Thank goodness for the dill and vinegared cucumber, glad I saved that as my juicy last bite.

In homage of today.... my dad would say.... "And you actually liked that weirdo shit?"

written June 19, 2011 - Mary